Fourteen Strollers took the train to Hamilton Square, Birkenhead, for a visit to Birkenhead Priory. From the station, Brian took us around Hamilton Square, giving us the history of the square’s design, its historic residents, and the architecture of the Grade I listed terraces and gardens. Our next stop was at the “Futility Statue”. The original memorial was at the Birkenhead Institute’s former playing fields (now a housing development) and this replacement was formally unveiled in February 2019 by the Duke and Duchess of Sussex. It stands before a memorial arch (to reflect that which originally stood above the gates to the playing fields), with a lazer cut steel screen depicting a Flanders landscape. Wilfred Owen was an Old Boy of the school and the words of his poem, “Futility” are inscribed on the plinth, itself constructed from materials reclaimed from the former sports pavilion. Along Chester Street we saw the mural painted by Liverpool artist, Paul Curtis in 2020 on Gallaghers pub – a tribute to the “Women and Children First – Birkenhead Drill”, and Brian gave us the history of the drill’s origin. We then walked along Pilgrim Street and Church Street and arrived at the Priory. Here, we split into two groups and were given a guided tour of the Priory with a most comprehensive history of its development through the years and of the institution of the first Mersey Ferry. She also told us of the sinking of the submarine “Thetis” in 1939. Metal plaques, one for each of those lost are on the wall of the stairway leading to the top of St Mary’s Tower, approximately one plaque for each step. The clock tower overlooks Cammell Laird shipyard where the submarine was built, and the workplace of many of those who lost their lives. We scaled the 101 steps and had wonderful views across the river to Liverpool. From here we could also see the work being carried out in Cammell Lairds. The “Irish Sea Pioneer”, a jack-up support vessel consisting of a ship’s hull with an electrically- driven jacking system which raises the vessel to the desired working height, was undergoing maintenance and the “Caledonian Isles” ferry was in dry dock. We then went into the “Scriptorium” above the Chapter House where the Friends Of HMS Conway have a chapel and museum of memorabilia. The ship was originally stationed on the Mersey, then moved to the Menai Strait during World War II. While being towed back to Birkenhead for a refit in 1953, she ran aground and was wrecked.
After leaving the Priory, we made our way down to the River’s edge at Monks Ferry slipway. The “Snowdrop” Dazzle Ferry sailed past as we walked along to Woodside where the Ferry Terminal is undergoing refurbishment. We passed the U-Boat Story, also currently closed for refurbishment – and “Resurgam”, a replica of a Victorian prototype submarine which sank off Rhyl in 1880.(Resurgam in Latin = “I shall rise again”. Not very prophetic!) We passed a former police sandstone booth ( dated 1868 ) in Shore Road which was the old entrance to Birkenhead Docks, and an old pumping station, before reaching Hamilton Square. Some then caught the train home, with others calling at the Liberty Bell for lunch.
Thanks to Brian and Brenda for organising and leading the walk and for Brian’s history of Birkenhead.
The next walk will be on August 18th. Details to follow.
Brilliant history of Birkenhead must have made the walk even more rewarding.